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Air
filters maintenance
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Much
dirt and dust accumulates in the engine because a vast amount
of air is pumped through and consumed in it. This accumulated
dust and dirt must be filtered out, if not, this will soon
block the small jets in the carburetor and would rapidly
wear down the piston rings and cylinder walls. Hence a pleated
sheet of resin-impregnated paper with pores of a controlled
size is used as filter. This filter is housed inside a pan
shaped metal or plastic housing called the air cleaner.
The filter muffles the hissing rush of sir through the carburetor,
and shape of the intake snorkel is designed to damp out
the noise caused by air pressure fluctuations.
INSPECTION
You should inspect the air cleaner every six months and
clean the filter element using compressed air. However,
the filter element should be changed atleast every 10,000
kms, in some cars every 5000 kms or as specified by your
car manufacturer. If the filter is wet, damaged or very
dirty it should be replaced with a new one since running
your car with a clogged filter may result in hard staring,
stalling and poor gas mileage. A damaged filter will cause
engine wear. When inspecting the filter, you should also
remove and inspect the positive crank case ventilation (PVC)
filter and if necessary replace it with a new one. In order
to perform certain jobs, you will have to remove the entire
air cleaner assembly and hence it is advisable to label
each hose and its attachments on the air cleaner for easy
reassembling.
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Avoid
Battery failure
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The
battery becomes flat or stops working when the surfaces
of both plates have turned completely to lead sulphate.
Restoration of the electrodes to their original condition
involves recharging the cell with an electric current and
thus regenerates the fluid in the cell, i.e. the
sulphuric acid.
This process of recharging is not unending. A battery eventually
becomes defunct and recharging may not be possible due to
various causes: -
Sulphates coat the plates become encrusted, making it impossible
to be conducive to flow of current through them ;
The plates themselves may become weak and brittle causing
disintegration;
Short-circuiting may occur due to leaks between the cells.
If the charging system does not produce enough current to
keep the battery charged, the lead sulfate can become hard
and acts as a resistance that will oppose recharging.
Vibration is another common reason for battery failure.
If the battery is not secure, the plates will shed the active
material. If enough material is shed, the sediment at the
bottom of the battery can create an electrical connection
between the plates. The shorted cell will produce a lower
voltage, only 10.5v. in such an undercharging condition,
the sulfate is not converted and it will harden on the plates,
also blocking the proper working of the starter.
To prevent this problem, make sure that proper hold-down
fixtures are used.
The greatest toll is taken when the car is being started.
Once the engine is running, the generator supplies the flow
of current to the battery to recharge it and keep it as
such.
The chassis or bodywork acts as the earthing for the negative
terminal, in most modern cars.
The ad jingle- starting problem - big problem is because
the battery is malfunctioning or is probably being over
charged (indicated by inconsistent functioning of the horn
and light).
During normal battery operation, two major degenerative
processes occur - the active materials on the plates shed,
and the negative plate also becomes soft. Both of these
events will reduce the effectiveness of the battery.
CHECK AND DOUBLE CHECK :-
1.Clean Battery terminals are a must and make sure there
is no sulphur formation.
2.Any accidental spillage and/or damage to the battery is
mostly prevented by binding the battery
well to the given battery tray.
3. Ensure proper connection of the battery cables.
4. Generator's drive belt is properly adjusted. The driver
belt is very crucial to the electrical system of your car,
as without it effective charging of the generator will not
happen resulting in your car emptying itself of electric
power. Cooling system (water-pump) and the engine-cooling
fan are run on this drive belt in certain auto designs.
A malfunctioning drive belt can be the cause something as
dangerous as an engine seizure.
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Brakes
maintenance
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Inspecting
of brake systems
Checking and maintaining your car brakes is a very easy job
and it does not require technical knowledge. Maintaining car
brakes involves three basic procedures:
1. Inspecting them for damage and wear
2. Replacing linings
3. If required complete overhaul or replacing of a part that
fails.
Every car owner should inspect his brakes to see that the
linings do not wear out prematurely. Most brake problems develop
gradually and can be detected by inspecting the brake system.
Most lining replacement simply involve removing of a few mechanical
parts replacing the worn out brake shoes or pads and reassembling
them. Replacing a leaking brake hose or hydraulic cylinder
is a straight nut and bolt job. Bleeding the brakes afterwards
to expel the air from the system is usually a two-man job
but not at all difficult. The power boost brakes either work
or fail completely. If the vacuum or hydraulic systems that
produce the power are connected and not leaking, repair is
a matter of removing the power booster and exchanging it for
a new or re-built part and reinstalling it.
It makes sense to remove the brake drum and check the shoes,
at least once a year. Such inspections make it easy to tell
how much useful life is left before it requires replacement.
When it is possible, the car may be placed on top of a repair
ramp to take a close look at the brakes from under the vehicle.
Check for leaks on or around the brake parts. This can range
from the brake fluid to the axle wheel. The brake shoes should
be free of oil and grease contamination.
Now jack up the wheels one at a time and remove the wheel
for inspection. If your car has disc brakes, examine the pads
to see if they are worn out and require replacing. The face
of the pad should show even wear. If not so, there may be
a problem with the brake caliper. It is now advisable that
you consult your mechanic.
On drum brakes it will be necessary to remove the wheel drum
to see the brake shoes. If you ever drive through mud or water,
it is a good idea to wash out the brakes with water so as
to flush away any dirt or sand. It is also a good practice
to replace brake fluid once in two years to avoid master cylinder
corrosion caused by condensation of water vapour in the brake
fluid.
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Tyre
Wear
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As
the face is the index of the mind, the condition of the tyre
is an indication of the condition of the car and of the way
you drive. If one can read tyres, then the future of the car
can be predicted. To take it further, the treads are like
the lines in one's hands and a good palmist can soon predict
the Doomsday.
THE WAY YOU DRIVE
Application of common sense will tell that sudden brakes and
high acceleration will in turn apply brakes in the effectiveness
of the tyre and accelerate the tyre wear. A sudden brake might
cause a flat spot in the tyre. This will happen when the wheels
lock and the car is dragged like this for some distance.
Sometimes, when constantly driven at high speeds, the rubber
of the tyres might soften due to the heat generated at that
speed. This might result in parts of the treads being flung
away from the tyre. What this means is that the tyre is not
fit for high speeds or rough handling. Then there is always
our friendly neighbourhood Indian road. They will assist in
bringing about a swift end to tyre. So stick to the maxim
right tyres for the right roads and extend the life of your
tyre.
CONDITION OF THE CAR
Pressure not only affects humans. It also affects the tyres.
It is a common belief that reduced pressure improves the road
holding. But on the contrary, it doesn't really help in rainy
days, when the danger of hydroplaning increases. On the other
side, increase in air pressure causes wear in the middle of
the tyre. Therefore having the right pressure is always good
for the life of the tyre. When checking the air pressure,
check when the car has not run too much, like in the morning.
If the car is well run, then it will show a higher value than
actually is.
If run constantly with incorrect air pressure, it will result
in uneven wear. Under inflated tyre will wear off the edges,
while over inflated tyres will reduce the centre tread down
to its bones.
If extra wear occurs in several places, then check the brakes.
They might not be correctly adjusted. If extra wear happens
in one spot of the tread, then the wheels might be badly balanced.
Bad wheel balance or even a fault in the suspension, steering
gear or bearing will cause uneven wear.
Anything that is stuck to the tyre or that has pierced the
tyre like a nail, should be removed immediately and appropriate
steps has to be taken to lessen the damage that the foreign
object can cause.
Finally check the air pressure regularly; at least once a
week, for even a tubeless tyre will lose air.
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Wipers
and Washer
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Wipers
keep the windshield clear in bad weather and are essential
for safe driving. For the wipers to work efficiently keep
both the windshields and wipers clean by washing them once
a week. Clean the inside of the windshield as well to maintain
good visibility.
The squeegees are that part of the wiper system that actually
cleans the windshield. They are made of rubber. Air pollution
time and weather affect this rubberized portion and hence
they should be replaced every six to twelve months.
To test the squeegees wash the windshield and the squeegees
with mild and warm soap water. Rinse thoroughly and wet the
windshield again. Now run the wipers through a complete circle.
If they skip or skid, replace the squeegees with new ones.
The blade assembly should distribute pressure evenly along
the entire length of the squeegees. If the mental is bent
or the swivel joints are corroded, then the wipers may miss
sweeping some areas of the glass and may need replacement.
Wiper arms contain tension springs that exert the correct
pressure on the blade. In case the spring is damaged or broken,
the arms must be replaced.
The common windshield wiper problems are smearing, chattering
and water beads.
Washers: To clean the windshield adequately, not only wipers
but also the washers must be in good operating condition.
Basically all windshield water systems contain a reservoir
to hold the washing solution, a pump operated either by an
electric motor or rarely by foot, nozzles to deliver the spray
to the windshield, and the tubing to connect the nozzle and
the pump.
If very little or no washing solution is delivered to the
shield when operated then first check if the reservoir contains
enough solution. Sometimes washer failure is caused by kinks
in the tubing or when dirt clogs the system. Straighten the
kinks and clean the system thoroughly. But in case the pump
becomes unserviceable, replace the entire system with another
pump.
Before taking off on a long drive or trip, be sure to check
both the wipers and the washer - both should function well
enough to render your shield clean and clear.
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Clutch
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A
clutch is a devise, which disengages the engine from the transmission
when the clutch is depressed so that the gears in the manual
transmission can be shifted smoothly. Part of the clutch is
attached to the engine flywheel and part to the transmissions
input shaft. When the clutch pedal is released, both the potions
of the clutch join together and the flywheel and input shaft
rotate as one piece.
The clutch pedals are seen in only manual transmission vehicles.
In automatic transmission cars it may be noted that no clutch
pedals are provided, as there is no requirement for them.
CLUTCH PEDAL FREE PLAY
In cars where clutches are provided you need to ascertain
the clutch pedal free travel periodically. As the clutch wears
from normal use the free play travel is used. If not adjusted,
regularly there is a possibility of partial disengagement
and this results in slippage and premature clutch failure.
Hence the periodic adjustment is required. If the clutch starts
to disengage, when stepping on it, then it should be adjusted
to give free travel (which is the distance from the top of
the pedal as you step on it to the point where it starts to
disengage the clutch.) This distance should be somewhere around
18-22 mm.
However there are two types of clutches. They are
Cable operated clutch linkages ii. Rod-operated clutches.
In the cable operated clutches adjustments are made by screwing
adjusting nut in or out of a threaded fitting at on end of
the cable. There are locking devices holding the adjustments.
Adjusters may also be found at the pedal or clutch-operating
fork. Rear drive cars must be rained to get at fork adjusters
on clutch housing. Front drive cars can be adjusted from under
the hood as can rear drive cars with adjusters.
In the rod-operated clutches push-on levers instead of pulling-on
cables to remove the clutch fork is utilized. This system
is usually found on the larger and older cars that require
strong linkage. All common rod linkages adjust by a threaded
rod that is secured by in one or two adjusting or locking
nuts. The adjustment is made at clutch housing under the car
on the drivers side. First measure the free play at the pedal
if it is insufficient, raise the front end of the car and
support it safely. Spray locking and adjusting nuts with penetrating
oil and clean off the dirt before attempting to make adjustments.
When the clearance is correct, lock the adjuster.
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| Differential
Transmission and Transfer Case Fluid
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Every
six moths or so, the level in manual transmission should be
checked and oil added if necessary. There is a dipstick in
automatic transmissions, but in manual you will have to remove
a metal or rubber filler plug and check the level with your
finger. Always use the oil that is recommended by your user
manual.
Checking oil in differential should be carried out every six
months and in case of necessity oil can be added. The procedure
is essentially the same as for manual transmission. In a front
wheel drive car, the differential is housed with the transmission
in a unit called transaxle. In manual transmission the manual
requires only one lubricant and has only one filler hole.
The transaxle in automatic transmission is lubricated separately.
Most carmakers do not recommend any oil change in the differential
unless the car has been subjected to unusually heavy use.
Always use the recommended lubricant as specified in the manual.
Special lubricants are used in limited slip differentials
so you must first confirm whether or not your car has a differential
of that type.
Only when you know what to look for can you check the condition
of your differential transmission (and transfer gears in case
of four-wheeled drive) i.e., what is more important is the
condition of the fluid and not the level. On most of these
drive trains, the fluid is checked at the plughole half way
up the differential housing or cover plate. The oil level
is just to the bottom of the hole. Stick your finger in it
and get enough on it to see if there are any metal particles
in the oil. If so, it can cause the bearings to fail and seals
to leak.
Timely repair can save a lot of money as well as avoid a major
breakdown. The metal particles are probably from the gears
put under a heavy load. Hence it is prudent to completely
change the oil.
Be very careful about the oil used on the transfer case -
some vehicles of foreign make use ATF (Automatic Transmission
Fluid) while others use heavier oil. If transfer case oil
is low and transmission is overfilled, internal is indicated
and you should consult your technician soon
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Engine
Hoses – Maintenance
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Most
of the cooling systems are equipped with four hoses. They
are upper and lower radiator hose, heater inlet and outlet
hose. Some systems also have a by-pass hose near the water
pump. On few engines one of the heater hoses makes a detour
to a water heated choke, in-take manifold or exhaust gas
cooler. Cooling system hoses should be checked at least
once in six months. Any hose that is cracked, leaking, oil
soaked, or that feels hard or spongy and squeezed should
be replaced immediately. Early replacement of a weak hose
will prevent overheating and possible engine damage. Follow
the instructions given in your User Manual and ensure that
the replacement, whether carried out by a mechanic or yourself
is the correct size, length and shape. Hoses come in different
sizes and shapes to fit different car models. Lower hoses
have an internal spring that helps maintain the shape. The
hoses are held in place by hose clamps. These clamps should
be inspected periodically and tightened if loose.
If your vehicle is about two years old, close inspection
of rubber hoses is a good idea. The new silicone hoses last
a long time, but be sure that they are not rubbing against
any part in the engine compartment. If there is a worn spot
on the hose, you can simply tie a piece of wire to the hose
to eliminate further wear due to vibration. But make sure
the hose is replaced at the earliest by a new one. If the
hose collapses after the engine cools down, then it is an
indication that it has become soft and needs replacing.
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Fan
Belts |
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are also called drive belts. Drive belts operate various
engine accessories like the fan, water pump, power steering
pump, air conditioning compressor, alternator and air injection
pump. One belt may sometime drive two or more accessories.
All these belts are driven by the crankshaft pulley. There are some pulleys known as idler pulleys used for tensioning
purposes. These pulleys drive belts which are of two types.
First the V-Shaped cross section belts called V-Belts and
second, the groove belts that fit into grooved surfaces
in special pulleys. Frequent checks of belts condition and
tension will help to avoid problems. Defective belts should
be replaced immediately. If a fan belt breaks, the water
pump will stop circulating coolant and the engine will overheat.
If the belt for the power steering pump breaks, you may
still steer the car, but it will require greater effort.
When buying a new belt, make sure it is the same
size and type as the belt it is replacing.
If the accessory is driven by a matched pair of belts, and
one belt breaks, replace both the belts with new ones. You
may have to remove all the belts to replace one close to
the engine block. In such a case it is a good idea to mark
all the belts so that they can be reinstalled correctly
Once the belt is fixed, adjust it to the proper tension.
The tension may require readjustment after the belt has
been placed for a few weeks, since the new belts stretch
with initial use. The thumb rule for belt tightness/tension
is that if you push the belt with our finger, it should
not move more than 13mm. If the movement is more or less,
tighten or loosen accordingly. Some multi-groove belts have
a tensioner that requires no adjustment. This is a spring-loaded
arm that runs on the backside of the belt, keeping it tight.
This can become faulty too. Check and adjust it regularly.
Another thing to look at is the shiny and polished
surface inside the V. This could indicate defective bearings
in any of the accessories driven by this belt. You should
replace or repair the same before a major breakdown happens
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Fuses |
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| Commandos
do a job similar to that of a fuse, protect or die trying.
The Fuses used in automobiles are made of a glass-enclosed
strip of having a low melting point alloy metal. If the fuse
"blows" or self-destructs, a circuit overload is
usually the reason; the protection of the wiring and the components
it serves is guaranteed as it does allow the excess current
to touch it. Each electrical system, in newer automobiles,
has its individual electrical circuit (e.g. for the headlights,
parking lights, wipers, audio, cigarette lighter, etc). A
series of exclusive fuses usually, is the best bet to protection
from shorting or overload of the main fuse link. Five to twenty
five Amperes is the range of these fuses.
WHAT TO DO WHEN A FUSE BLOWS: -
Properly clean the fuse holder if fuse is still serviceable.
Ignition switch and other switches must be turned off.
REPLACING: -
The fuse must be replaced with one of the same value (for
convenience specific color codes are present for specific
ampere values or the fuse rating of each fuse is specified
on it). If this new fuse also fails as soon as it is fitted,
short-circuiting may be the reason so check again the wiring
of the components. To find the point of fault it is necessary
to switch on other accessory switches and see which one blows,
then replacing it. The wiring or accessory parts may be faulty
so need to be closely investigated.
OTHER REASONS FOR FAILURE:-
There may be corrosion, it may be unclean or may have been
displaced by the motion of the automobile. The holder may
be tightened or the fuse may be cleaned well to restore the
circuit.
Substitutions for fuses are both unsafe and unreliable and
should be avoided as much as possible. Some use silver paper
around a match or a blown fuse, but if there is even a slight
fault in the wiring of the circuit or component, there could
be disastrous complications.
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King
Pins and Wheel Bearings
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wheel of a car is normally made of stamped steel parts that
are welded together. However wire wheels and one piece cast
or forged aluminum wheels are also available as an option
on many cars. The wheel is made up of two parts called the
rim and the centre. The wheel centre is offset to one side
to make room for suspension and brake components. It is attached
to the hub by bolts with conical heads called lugs. The mounting
holes in the wheel centre are also conical so that the lugs
or lug nuts can position the wheel accurately. Ventilating
holes in the wheels help to keep the brakes cool. The wheel
hub is fitted over a ball or roller bearing on which the wheel
rotates. It serves as a mounting plate for the wheel itself
and for the brake disc or drum. The roller or ball bearings
reduce friction so that the wheels on a car turn freely. Tapered
roller bearings replace ball bearings in wheel hubs because
rollers can handle heavier loads and higher speeds. However
improved ball bearings are again replacing the rollers in
modern hubs.
To check the kingpins and bearings in any vehicle, the front
and rear of the vehicle should be raised up by jacking. When
the front wheels are jacked up, tightly hold the top and bottom
of the wheels with both the hands and try pushing or pulling
it. If the wheel moves it may indicate some wear and tear
in the king pins or steering knuckle. It is also possible
that the wheel bearings are loose. Now rotate the wheel to
check for noise. Disc brakes may show some drag because they
rely on wheel wobble to move the pad away from the rotor.
However in a drum brake type, the wheel should rotate smoothly
without noise. In case you hear something suspicious, consult
your mechanic
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Maintaining
Door Hinges |
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I was just a sweet little boy my grandma tied my shaky tooth
to the door of our car and slammed it shut. Imagine the agony!
Since then I have had many a door slammed in my face by a
number of good lookers and they have only aggravated my hostility
towards doors in general.
Door hinges require periodic lubrication to keep them operating
properly. As I unwillingly discovered, the operation of doors
is not as simple as it may seem and to get a grasp of the
same, one need to know the various parts of he door.
Each door has two hinge assemblies: one on the top, called
the upper hinge (brilliant man was he who named that...) and
one on the bottom, called the lower hinge.
Each hinge assembly has two basic parts: one attached to the
body and one attached to the door. Most hinges are bolted
to the door and body (kindly bear with the boring details).
The bolt holes may be slotted to allow the door to be moved
slightly for proper alignment. A round pin called a hinge
pin is solidly attached to one side of the hinge assembly.
This pin fits into holes in the other side of the hinge assembly.
When the door is opened or closed, the hinge assemblies rotate
on the hinge pin.
Here's something practical for you to do...lubricate the space
between the hinge pin and the hole that it rides in, for the
hinge to move smoothly.
One of the two hinges is usually equipped with a door check.
The door check is used to hold the door in an open position
after the door is opened.
The door check has three basic parts: a door check cam, a
door check roller, and a door check spring.
The door check roller is attached to the body side hinge.
The roller fits into grooves in a cam that is attached to
the door side of the hinge. When the door is opened the cam
moves and the roller rolls on it until the roller fits into
one of the grooves. With the roller engaged in a groove, the
door is held in an open position. There are several grooves,
which means there are several positions for holding the door
open. The door check spring holds the cam and roller in contact
with each other. The door check roller and the slots in the
door check cam each require periodic lubrication for proper
operation.
The door latch assembly on a car door is another area that
requires periodic lubrication. The door latch assembly holds
the door closed and allows it to be locked.
The parts of the door latch assembly that you see on the outside
of the door are the door handle and the part the key fits
in, called the door lock cylinder.Most of the door latch assembly
parts are located inside the door at the opposite end from
the hinges.
Operating the door handle moves a linkage rod, which in turn
opens and closes the latch mechanism on the part of the door
called the door jam. The latch mechanism must be strong enough
to hold the door closed even if the car is involved in a collision
(you wouldn't want to spill out now would you?).So play safe...
When the door is closed, the latch mechanism engages a part
on the car body called the striker. The striker is mounted
to the body pillar. Some strikers are a stud (like moi!!)
or bolt that the latch mechanism engages like the one shown
below. Speaking of nuts and bolts reminds me of a cool pick-up
line I tried recently...
" You must be a spanner cause when I look at you my nuts
tighten."(haaaa...worked for me)
Back to serious business... other cars use a part called a
striker plate, which the latch mechanism can engage.
The door lock cylinder allows the driver to lock the door.
The lock cylinder and related parts fit inside the door. When
the key is inserted into the lock it slide into the lock cylinder
(ooo baby!!!).
Turning the key turns a pawl at the end of the cylinder. The
pawl engages a connecting link to the door latch assembly.
When the lock cylinder is in the locked position, the connecting
link prevents the door latch mechanism from operating: the
door cannot be opened.
Lubricate, lubricate, lubricate.... The door hinge and lock
mechanism should be on your list every time the car is serviced.
A door hinge assembly that is not properly maintained will
result in a noisy, hard-to-operate door. An improperly maintained
lock mechanism will result in locking and unlocking problems
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The
Exhaust System |
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BASICS
The exhaust system of a car transports hot, poisonous gases
from the engine out side the car where they can be released
into the atmosphere without danger to the car's occupants.
The system also reduces the sound of combustion, and usually
contains a catalytic convertor - a chemical reaction chamber
in which exhaust pollutants are converted into less harmful
substances. Burned gases are released from the combustion
chamber, with great force, several times a minute with high
pressure. Super sonic shock waves ricochet through the exhaust
manifold. The muffler breaks up or absorbs the pressure waves
reducing them to legally acceptable noise level. The water
and road alt eat away at the exhaust system from the outside.
Water and acid vapour in the exhaust gases eat away from the
inside the pipes and mufflers. A point to note is that city-driven
cars used for short trips will need more frequent muffler
replacement than a car used for longer trips.
TROUBLE SHOOTING
Engine faults can often be detected by observing and listening
to the exhaust system. An irregular exhaust note can be caused
by ignition defects or incorrect carburetor settings. Sooty
exhaust smoke may indicate too rich a fuel mixture or failure
of an injection system. Excessive blue smoke when the car
is accelerating shows that oil is leaking past worn out valve
guides and piston rings.
Other causes of smoky exhaust are brake fluid or automatic
transmission fluid sucked through vacuum hoses to intake manifold
from a faulty power brake booster or transmission modulator.
Lastly white smoke indicates coolant leak.
Catch hold of the tailpipe of your car and shake it freely.
If any mounds are loose, it may touch the body and rattle.
Look over the exhaust system for loose bolts, loose mounding
or cracks. Cracking around the muffler inlet or outlet is
very common. Thus if any of these defects are noted in time
it could save you from losing part of your exhaust system
on a rough road.
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| Oil
And Lubricants - Maintenance
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oil in your car's engine requires to be changed at intervals
specified in your car's User Manual. So you should buy only
oil of high quality and the type recommended for your car
for the conditions under which it is driven.
It is interesting to note that motor oil does much more than
lubricate engine parts and prevents destructive metal-to-metal
contact. Special additives strengthen the lubricating film
giving it the ability to withstand high pressures. Additives
inhibit the formation of sludge, carbon and varnish deposits;
they retard rust, which can result from the actions of acids
and moisture that forms within the engine. Moreover, additives
keep the oil from becoming too thick or too thin under extreme
operating temperatures and control foaming of oil.
Nowadays synthetic oils are also available which last much
longer before they need replacing.
How To Change Engine Oil :
Change the engine oil at intervals specified by the manufacturer
of your car/ lubricating oil. Synthetic oil need not be changed
as frequently. A clean funnel will serve to pour the oil.
On cars with hard to reach filter caps, a funnel with a flexible
neck may be needed.
Try to drain the oil when the engine is warm; the old oil
will dry quickly and completely, and more of the contaminants
that the oil holds in suspension will be removed. Be careful
however of the engine parts that may be too hot. If the engine
is cold, let the oil drain at least for 20-30 minutes before
reinstalling the drain plug.
Changing the oil filter is part of the routine engine maintenance.
Usually the oil filter is changed everytime you change the
engine oil. But in any case at least twice a year it should
be changed.
The Owner's Manual for your car will specify the type of filter
needed. Purchase a reputable brand of filter and one that
is designed for the service is essential.
Virtually all cans use a spin-on type of oil filter. When
a new filter is installed make sure that the old filters'
o-ring comes off with the filter and is not stuck to the filter
housing. Clean off the matting surface of the filter housing
and coat a new filter o-ring with clean oil. Then install
the new filter following the instructions regarding tightening.
Even though many car makers allow long intervals between lubrication
of suspension, steering systems, wheel bearings, transmission
systems, etc. it is prudent to grease everything at least
one a year.
Choose a chassis grease that contains molybdenum disulphide
made by a reputable company. Most cars are equipped with nipple
type grease fitting, but some have plug type fitting also.
Always have some right angle nipples along with normal ones
when going in for greasing of your car in a service station.
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Radiator
Fan |
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function of the radiator fan is to help the radiator to dissipate
the heat collected from the engine passages to the atmosphere
and thereby bring down the temperature of the coolant/water
that enters back into the engine via the water body pump.
There are three types of fans used in modern cars. They are
direct drive, clutch drive and electric drive.
The type used in your car depends upon the cooling requirements
of the engine as well as the engine's location in relation
to the radiator.
Most longitudinal engines have direct drive or clutch fans.
Both types are directly located behind the radiator and bolted
to the water pump pulley. If the car is equipped with air
conditioning or has a large cooling system, it is probably
fitted with a clutch fan. Both types can have either rigid
or flexible fans. The electric fans are used in cars with
transverse engines. Electric fans are bolted to the radiator
shroud and powered by an electric motor. The motor is turned
on and off by a thermostatic switch which is triggered by
the coolant temperature.
To test the fan, hold it tightly and try moving it. If you
detect any looseness, it can be due to bad water pump bearings
and will require an inspection by a mechanic. Most new cars
have electrically operated fans or plastic types coupled with
a viscous hub. The viscous hub is a finned aluminum center
that locks up the fan whenever the engine gets heated up.
Therefore if you have a overheating problem in your car, you
should check the viscous fan hub for leakage. If the silicone
oil filled inside the hub leaks out, it results in reduced
cooling power of the fan and thereby causes engine overheating.
In electrically operated systems reasons for fan failure could
be a blown fuse or a faulty radiator switch. In either case
it is better to consult an expert.
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Tyre
Maintenance |
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buying a car, you would have heard people say that the maintenance
cost is very low or very high. But do you know that even you
contribute in increasing the cost. A major chunk of money
is wasted in tyres, i.e., money which could have been saved
if only if you were more responsible. Anyway to be fair to
you even ignorance is a culprit in this case. We at carstreet.com
wish to dispel the ignorance and help you in your tyre maintenance.
THE BASIC STEPS TO BE TAKEN
The simplest and foremost step is to ensure that the air pressure
matches the manufacturer recommended figure. Check the pressure
at least once a week and do that in the mornings, when the
car would not have run much. If a car is run for some time,
then due to the heat that is built inside, the air pressure
reading will not be right.
So what do we do about the tyre wear? A complication is that
the wear will not be uniform. So rotation of the tyre is very
important. Rotation should be done even to the spare tyre.
So how is it done? It is to be between the same sides only.
That is the left side rear tyre will find itself in the front
in the same side. The left tyre should not be put to the right
side. Another important thing is that after the rotation is
done, the pressure should be corrected.
Everything starts and ends with tyre wear. Check the tyre
wear and see whether it follows a set pattern. By knowing
the pattern you can even rectify any other problem with the
car. For example, an uneven wear may hint that something is
wrong with suspension.
Also perform a regular check to see whether anything is stuck
to the tyre. In addition to the usual stones that get stuck
in the tyre, even a nail or a metal piece could be in the
tyre.
Just performs these basic jobs and for once ignorance wont
be bliss
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